Fall into New England, September 2014; Chicago August 2014 & Bogen/Salzburg, Summer 2013

Boston /Newport/Martha's Vineyard/Cape Cod 

En route to Martha's Vineyard & Cape Cod, we thought it would be fun to resume touring some of the sights in the historic town of Boston missed during our one day stopover back in October 2013 while on the Crystal Symphony. We reacquainted ourselves on the first night of our arrival with the gathering spaces of Faneuil Hall Marketplace and the Quincy Market food complex.



Copley Square - interestingly named after the famous and talented artist born in Boston -John Singleton Copley, even though Copley had left Boston in 1774 and settled back in England. The story pieced together by our open-air double-decker guide refers back to the building of the Museum of Fine Arts (1870) created as part of the Back Bay landfill.. the real estate promoters and city planners called the area "Art Square" and needed to find an artistic connection. By then a century had passed since the Revolution, Boston society had more sympathy for the Loyalists & one of Copley's sons had become a top London lawyer, then a viscount thus attaching a bit of aristocratic glamour to the renaming.
On the topic of glamour, here is the site of restaurant " The Last Hurrah" rumored to be the place where the celebrity first couple (JFK and Jacqueline) dined and became betrothed after JFK announced his plans to run for president AND proposed to Jackie 
Visited the Boston Tea Party Museum & joined in the tour
 Captain's  quarters
Tom becoming one of the "sons of liberty " re-enacting the treasonous act of dumping of the teas into the harbor 
Mike's Pastry - after we settled in to have our breakfast a busload of tourists descended into this landmark bakery in the Italian district...snapping up boxes of  treats...Holy Cannoli !!
Toured the colonial home of Paul Revere - more than a mere midnight rider ...he was a silversmith, engraver, woodmaker and early industrialist. As an early patriot, his name was given much traction from the dramatized poem written by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow "Paul Revere's Ride"   



Front of the Old State House and site of the Boston Massacre of March 5, 1770. We thought the ladies did a very thorough and objective recounting of the events that led to the incident. Very worthwhile visit. On top of  it all, you can freely sit in the Royal Governor's chair in the restored historic council chamber as it appeared in 1760's.

Harvard campus tour was quite an eyeopener. It pierced some myths and revealed Harvard's humble beginnings. Firstly, the track of land was swampy and originally thought worthless.That guy that everyone venerates is not even John Harvard...in fact there is not even a living pic nor portrait of John Harvard, the first major benefactor who donated half of his estate and his library, consisting of 400 books. The most regale worthy fact is the tradition of each student not just to rub the toe to bring good luck on exams, but to PEE on the statute in even greater frequency!

Next day we arrived in Newport RI and stayed in the B&B Cliffside Inn. Wonderful accomodations right at the start of the Newport Cliff Walk...a 3.5 mile public access walkway that borders the beautiful shore line. It runs behind many of Newport's famous gilded mansions, such as Astor's Beechwood, Rosecliff, Marble House, The Breakers, and Rough Point.


Just before the cliff walk- in front of The Chanler

Salve Regina University - right on the cliff walk - picturesque campus given a liberal arts foundation. Coed and catholic founded by the Sisters of Mercy. About 2700 undergrads from across US and around the world.
We selected The Breaker Mansion to visit - in front gates





By the Newport shoreside - deck and bar -Aquidneck Lobster Co.

Best Lobster Roll to date - right on the pier at the rear of Bowens Wharf..you have to walk through the fish market to find this Aquineck Lobster Company with 180 degree views of Newport Harbor.



Below is a quaint hookah lounge ...maybe for future visits ;-ooo

International Tennis Hall of Fame by the Newport Casino

Ferrying around dusk to Martha's Vineyard!


Hob Nob Inn at Edgartown became our home for 5 days. Our reservation was originally for Vineyard Haven, but due to overbooking on their part, we were moved to a B&B across the street from Hobnob - the next morning, we wasted no time to get matters rectified, and we were thus moved into one of the property's two village homes - nice run of the house as we were the only occupants for 4 out of the 5 days. 


Lovely hand painted floral art in ensuite

Daily breakfast taken either in dining room or spacious patio





Old Edgartown map. Martha's Vineyard was called 'Noepe' by the Indians which means 'in the midst of the Sea'. There are in fact six towns on this small island. Edgartown was named for Edgar, son of James II, who bore the title of  Duke of Cambridge.

Beautiful & traditional new england estates such as this one in central Edgartown. Thomas Mayhew, an English merchant was first to buy the Island back in 1641, then brought domestic animals, tools and other settlers to start a new colony. Some of the first families were Butler, Bland, Smith, Burchard, Daggett, Folger, Trapp, Bayes, Norton, Pease and Vinson.
One of our favourite past times was to bike on the island of MV . It was also perfectly temperate weather for this actiivity - go in early September ...perfect...


Lunch break on bike trip - stop over at Oak Bluffs - hub of activity by the marina & great eateries!

Next day took our bikes onto this "On Time Ferry" literally 2 min from shore to shore - to explore the nearby Chappaquiddick Island
Mytoi Japanese Garden on the island - it was a bit cloudy when we first arrived




Did not expect such elegant tranquility on this Is. - biking the roads gave us an appreciation of what utter serenity island life does offer  
Joined the historic tour - here is the infamous bridge and tidal channel & where "the incident" occurred back in 1969 that derailed Senator Edward Kennedy's presidential dreams. Local's don't like to dwell on the tragedy and point to other sights they'd like the island to be remembered for.


For instance, the Cape Poge Light at the northeast tip of the island  - the lighthouse can be seen in the final two shots in the film "Jaws", off to the right as Roy Scheider and Richard Dreyfuss swim back to shore.
Sunlight broke as we headed back from the tour - can't resist another turn in the Mytoi gardens - developed by Hugh Jones an Edgartown resident - later placed in the care of local conservationist, Mary Wakeman

Back from Chappaquiddick & taking in a bite and sights by shore line of Edgartown
Another day on the bike trails and we discovered the Alpaca Farm - in Massachusetts!

Here's the ubiquitous Black Dog logo - we actually had lunch in this Black Dog Tavern of Edgartown. The restaurant is literally 20 feet from the shores ..just to the left of where Ellen is standing...must be something when a storm is brewing or when tide is high. The legacy behind the Black Dog brand goes: a retired air force pilot, Robert Douglas, spends his summers on MV. He wanted to build his own boat and sail around MV - one day he adopted a black lab-boxer mix and it just loyally sailed with him and became a constant fixture in the Inn Douglas later built for sailors.





Series of gingerbread houses in Oak bluffs - fascinating to visit the museum house - you can immediately see how these scalloped decorative wooden frills originated from the settlers' tents construct. The Methodists of the late 1800's gathered in tents around Oak Bluffs each summer for religious meetings. Subsequently, they began erecting petite wooden houses instead of tents ...which eventally grew into these charming "Gingerbread Cottages".. what creativity can bring..;)





Great view in the cafeteria / restaurant atop Aquinnah lookout
Other side of Aquinnah Cliffs - you can see the noticeable erosion 

The westernmost point off of Aquinnah is the Gay Head Lighthouse - still working

Since we rented a car for a day, drove from Aquinnah to Menemsha to feast on the clams / oysters and lobsters in the small fishing village

...nomnomnom..yummie


Setting ourselves up in the beach chairs, courtesy of Hob Nob and munching on broiled lobsters as the sun sets on the beach of Menemsha....lots of neighbors dogs and all roam the beaches 


Throughout the week the MV "Fishing Derby" was in full swing. For almost 7 decades its been a tradition on the island from mid Sept - Oct & we would spot fishermen of all ages throughout the shores and banks devoted to this tradition from morning to dusk  
Returning to Edgartown ..stopping on the side of our biking trail to marvel at the sunset. 

Katama / South Beach near Edgartown - water's way too cold but the sunny sandy shores were inviting
.. some beachcombing to find the best unbroken quahog shells with most purplish hues  
Charming coffee bar ..need to walk a ways to the back & check out the cafe
ferrying again to Cape Cod
View off the balcony of the Anchor In Hotel in Hyannis Port
Bonfire was a good touch by Anchor In
Local artists enter into art auction in Hyannis

Chatham Orpheum Theater 
yet another fishing village to explore by the Chatham pier fish market
when the fishing boats return to unload their catch, all the seals swim over to look for free meals

Not bad but our taste buds were still hung up on Newport's lobster roll


..CC's strong arm of the seas ..lol
locals making preparations for the largest beach bonfire 
 scallop festival - quahogs and oysters too!
JFK Museum in town of Hyannisport

By the backyard of the Salt Pond Visitor Centre in Eastham - come here for great introduction to all that Cape Cod has to offer. Walking trails, museum, displays, movies, outdoor ampitheather  & generally welcoming helpful staff to answer all your questions & give suggestion to plan your visit 
Site of First Encounter in Eastham where in 1620 a hunting expedition landed, comprised from the crew of the sailing vessel Mayflower. The Mayflower had landed in Provincetown harbor after a rough crossing of 
Atlantic, after about 5 weeks they then sailed down which led to the first encounter or skirmish of the Pilgrims and the local Nauset tribe of Native Americans.
Oldest windmill of Cape Cod in Eastham
Piping plover photographed at Cape May National Wildlife Refuge, March 28, 2010.
...mesmerizing to see the rhythmic waves rolling in on Nauset Beach - very broad sandy beach edged by a steep glacial scarp behind it. Piping plovers, a cute whitish, black neck-ringed chick - an endangered species of birds also nest on the outer beach 
you can see the Nauset Lighthouse just at the parking lot of the beach

Here is the site to commemorate Guglielmo Marconi, Italian inventor and electrical engineer known for his pioneering work on long-distance radio transmission. This site is the Marconi Wireless station. It's here that radio transmissions between the Marconi site and the RMS Carpathia led to Carpathia's wireless operator contacting the Titanic and learning that the ship was floundering & later picked up 700 plus survivors of the disaster.


Provincetown - personality all its own





views of provincetown from observatory tower
Top of the monument
looking down the stairs on our way up the climb of Pilgrim's monument - total of 116 steps and 16 ramp. Completed in 1910 and dedicated by President Taft
Tom by the entrance after our climb down. The Provincetown Monument commemorates the Pilgrim's first landing place at the Cape's tip.


Town with a great sense of humor...
drove out to Race Point for sunset views


By JFK memorial 


Our last stop in CC was the town of Sandwich for a tour of the glass blowing museum where after Tom couldn't resist temptation to grab a "sandwich" in this nearby charming cafe.

Long August Weekend in Chicago 2014

Gotta make time to visit this world leading city of many firsts : First Skyscraper (1885) steel framed Home Insurance Building demolished later for construction of Sears Tower, currently the Willis Tower. First McDonald's "franchise" (1955) although its first restaurant opening was in California. First ferris wheel (1893). First deep-dish pizza, electric dishwasher/vacuum cleaner & zipper, also the Wrigley's gum & Cracker Jack. And let's not forget ..Chicago is the home of the first African-American President of the US.
View from the Ritz Carlton Chicago 
taking in the chicago Navy Pier & Beer Garden.. enjoying the featured band "HairbangerS Ball", dining at the Riva restaurant dockside and finished with the harbor fireworks on our first night
Have to say ..one of the better attractions as city art work goes - it certainly is a magnet for every visitor here
lets's see.. how many ways can we slice and dice the  BEAN! 

..and as yet another angle with the city facing you...



Taking in the "must see" CAF River tour - great intro to this modern skyscape

"Shikaakwa" meaning smelly onion was its historic name due to the leeks that grew in the watershed. Later, the name was "Frenchified" by explorer Robert La Salle when he called it "Checagou". The city is a great example of the advantages that US abundant natural waterway and lakes & harbor bring to it's economical development. There are not only more major navigable rivers in the US than anywhere else on the globe but they are blessed as well with more arable land than any other nation on earth.    
Dark clouds were brewing ...in fact we were caught in a rainshower shortly after this pic & biked our way back to hotel partly in the rain...even more fun..lol
Chicago is a enviable city for anyone strolling, biking, jogging, skateboarding..etc.. along the spacious lakefront boulevards. We really took advantage of the bixi bikes just outside of our hotel and took it out 4 out of the 6 days in the city 



                                  Lincoln Park Conservatory


in the arboretum ...so pretty 


Even though we did not go inside ... saw a cute Rhinos family by the Lincoln Zoo 
..then another great bike day with Donna & Fred
Took in a dinner Chicago Cut Steakhouse (Obama would approve)
                                                                                               Atop the Hancock 360 Observatory
...so after its all said and done, my personal favorite piece of architecture is this 81 storey Aqua hotel and residence designed by Jeanne Gang and won the "Emporis Award for best skyscraper of 2009" . Accentuated by the blue-green tint of the windows, the building has a surprisingly fluid facade even though it seems to be made from limestone and glass. It's undulating balconies adds that unique and subtle grace.On top of that the Aqua Tower earned LEED sustainable designation.  
At the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry - the " Pioneer Zephyr" or "Silver Streak" - a diesel powered stainless steel marvel - it set a record speed back in the 1930's

 on top of the Willis Tower (previously named Sears) ..you can actually see the inmates strolling atop rooftop exercise yard - pie shaped sandy structure known as the MCC - a federal prison

Other restaurant we gave a shot were the trendy digs known as the Purple Pig and the Girl with a Goat ... truth be told, albeit one can give merit for certain innovative pairing of what may be considered unusual ( in North American terms) ingredients, ...but we conclude both are long on hype and the test will be if they're still around in a decade or so...

Chicago's duelling piano bar "Howling at the Moon" was great fun !!
 
 At the House of Blues

Bogen Germany and Salzburg Austria July 2013 

Info links: Spinal Surgery / degenerative disc disease / alternatives to fusion / artificial disc replacements adr /cervical or lumbar spinal cord



Pro Spine Clinic
Mussinanstraße 6
D-94327 Bogen, Germany


In the summer of 2013, Tom experienced a second instance of ruptured cervical discs. This was subsequent to the first emergency encountered early in January of 2013 wherein an emergency fusion for one cervical segment was performed in St. Michael's Hospital of Toronto. This time, we reacted quickly to obtain a MRI in Buffalo and to research alternative options to fusion. The internet pointed Ellen to a cutting edge and prevailing long-term medical solution, ADR (artificial disc replacements)... which eventually led us to a Bogen hospital and the affiliated Pro Spine clinic in Germany. Fortunately for us, Dr. Rudolph Bertagnoli, the world's foremost leading surgeon, researcher and educator for over 20 years in the area of artificial disc replacement, had a top-notch team in place for handling inquiries of this nature from out-of-country medical clienteles. At our urging, his senior surgeon and administrator, Dr. Fenk-Meyer, was able to provide us with a surgery date prior to the Pro-Spine Clinic's traditional August summer break. Hence, within 10 days of the MRI results, on July 27th, we embarked upon our medical tourism to Bogen via Munich.  

Now, after a year and a half post-op, thanks to the expert skills of Dr. Bertagnoli, Tom is doing very well. As this is primarily a vacation diary, I would refer anyone interested in our experience re this medical procedure in Germany to go to the website : http://www.dr-bertagnoli.com/ . For Tom's own testimonial, click under reviews and then look on the margin for Artificial Disc - Toronto, Canada.
Dr. Bertagnoli meeting with us after our arrival in Pro Spine

Three days after surgery, Tom is enjoying Bogen's wonderful Ristorante Da Franca



Relief...written all over ... mangiamo !!

After a week of patient care in Bogen, we moved to the nearby town of Straubing for another week of rehabilitation. At the hotel Theresientor in Straubing (below), prearranged by the clinic, we spent the first week in August strolling the 
charming stadtplatz absorbing the summer heat and dining al fresco along the patios of the town square, in search of the best pork hocks or schweinshaxe with potato dumplings and braised red cabbages & beer on offer 
There was a heat wave of sorts .. so to cool down, Ellen would duck into the shop boutiques or find a shady spot for novelty ice creams ...
We also met up with a fellow cervical patient from Australia, and took to habitual breakfasts buffets with Vicky and Peter, a couple staying also at the hotel Theresientor.  
At around the second or third day after arriving in Straubing, Tom was already off all medication save the antibiotics which continued for just another week. Feeling well enough of do some sightseeing, the two patients and their excellent companions went on an outing in Straubing to see the Gaeubodenmuseum which holds one of Germany's most important repositories of Roman treasures.




The displays included imposing armours and masks for both soldiers and horses.




Another outing led us to hiking around the vicinity of Straubing and one day we ventured a walk about 3 miles out of town to the riverbanks and nearby churches



Day after, we took advantage of the accessible local trains and made a whole day trip to the nearby picturesque town of Regensburg. This was a stop on our 2012 river cruise of the Danube, but on that occasion, Tom had signed up for the Audi tour and missed out on visiting the town itself. Thus it was a good excuse for us to return and enjoy the historic sausage kitchen again.

Here is the pic of the 900 year old famous "oldest sausage kitchen in the world". Built during the 12th century to satisfy the hungry workers during the construction of the nearby Stone Bridge and Cathedral, the specialty of the historic kitchen is the fried sausages served with rolls made with caraway seeds, home-made sauerkraut and mustard.. it's become a must for every visitor to Regensburg.




On August 10th, it was a time for a annual village festival in Straubing called the "Gaubodenvolksfest" ... and in keeping with Bavarian custom, we decided to go shopping for the correct garb as we were invited to join in with the esteemed Doctor at his table in the Kroner beer tent. 


Prooost! Zum Wohl !!






The esteemed Dr. Professor Bertagnoli invited us to supper at Kroger tent for traditional bavarian Oktoberfest











...it was a most uniquely fun and special day ..
On the following morning, Tom was formally given the green light by Dr. Bertagnoli to travel to Salzburg for leisurely sightseeing as we felt it may be opportune to visit the beautiful lake districts, after all, we were in no rush to leave in case there would be need for further followups ( thankfully, none were needed before leaving Europe). Thanks to the good doctor's driver - Mr. Hoch who helped to transfer us from the hotel in Straubing to Salzburg ( ~ 2 hr drive).
We felt lucky to be visiting this beautiful city once again... this time we made it to the Hohensalzburg Castle & made a day of it ..wonderful views 
View from the Festung









The golden bedchamber of the Prince-Bishop







Strolling through Petersfriedhop once again... this time better weather than our visit in 2012

Horse carriages always in front of the Salzburg Cathedral (Dom) by the Fontana della Residenza


Our trek to Nonnberg Convent

Do you think this looks like the gate where the children came to find Fraulein Maria 
..or was it this gate?


Lunch atop the old town square
...where Julie Andrews hit one of her high notes ...
Taking in the colorful Mirabell Palace gardens


Lake Wolfgang - would be a dream to situate here - a turquoise shimmering pearl amongst the lakes of the Austrian Lake District. It was named after Saint Wolfgang of Regensburg, who according to legend, built the first church here in the late 10th century.
these pics show differences in color rendering from iphone shots vs sony although taken on same day 


There are several village settlements along shores of Wolfgangsee - Abersee and St. Gilgen / Strobl ..it had been frequented as vacation resort by former German Chancellor Helmut Kohl





In front of the legendary White Horse Inn (Weissen Roessl) One of Austria's most famous hotels due to the 1896 musical operetta about a lovesick head waiter and the Inn's hostess. Run by 5th generation of Paul Johann Peter family, the complex consists of nine interconnected town houses perfectly situated on the banks of the Lake Wolfgang and near the pilgramage church.
Pfarrkirche St. Wolfgang - the pilgramage church known especially for Michael Pacher's winged altar - a great piece of elaborate Gothic art, gilded sculpture and architecture.


 A midday tour of Hellbrunn Castle (Schloss Hellbrun) & its trick fountains ...Its fun and you do get wet ;)

Built by Archbishop Markus Sittikus of Salzburg between 1612 and 1619. It was erected as a place of recreation and regeneration. Markus Sittkus visited Italy as a young boy of eight and lived there with his uncle, studing law and experienced the luxurious villas of that age, with their statues and joke fountains. He was renowned as a lover of ostentatious processions and the fine arts. Markus later engaged the most famous opera singers of the time to sing in the Steintheater (theatre in the rock) and organised hunts for prominent visitors. He was said to have loved the alpine ibex ( wild goat) and kept them in Hellbrunn - thus the depictions of them in stone logos throughout the entire complex.


Hellbrunn - The Palace is actually a "villa suburbana", an architectural concept based on the Itailian model, which hosts visitors only during the day. The architect is thought to be Santino Solari from Italy, master builder of the Salzburg Cathedral.


Taking the long cable car to the top of Untersberg mountain, the biggest moutain surrounding Salzburg stretching into Germany and thereby serves as a natural border. Up and up... you get magnificent views of the Rositten Valley & surrounding alps..


our hike to the restaurant yielded no warmth .. closed up already 

Ohhh noo...billygoats getting away...

 We were about 1800m or 6000 ft up .. this is high-alpine country ..brrrr.. should have brought thicker scarves..
 Towards dusk, we arrived back to old town and treated ourselves to our last dinner in Salzburg behind the Domkirche where summer operas can be enjoyed by all...
 ..mmm..campari soda refreshes...



                                 Siemens hosted free festival nights on Kapitelplatz - great idea to make the arts more accessible to all audiences. For a period of five weeks, starting from 6pm concerts from the Salzburg Festival can be heard on Kapitelpaltzand Operas from 8pm.