Azores Island Hopping

May 31 - June 12,  2018

- Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world -- Scott Cameron

Sprinkled like sesame seeds on the world map...in the midst of the Atlantic ocean are 9 tiny islands...you'd be remiss to hastily dismiss them for their diminutive size though & here 's why: 
The islands' possess in abundance natural beauty in an array of gem like colors. Its age old traditions of farming have preserved their pastoral landscape which is uniquely breathtaking ...here are two examples in Sao Miguel - its largest island. We were able to sample 4 of the 9 Azorean islands on this 13 day trip. Pic above is famed Lagoa do Fogo & below is a preliminary highlight of Sete Cidades from the hilltop - yippie!                          

This chain of islands in the mid-Atlantic about 800 miles west of Portugal was discovered in 1492 and named by the Portuguese as 'acor' meaning 'hawk , or buzzards' as its founders sighted numerous acors flying overhead.
Later on, various other European settlers of Flemish, Italian, Scots, English, Bretons and Spanish came as well.  It was over 90 years ago that Portuguese writer Raul Brandão sailed to this archipelago and gave each island a different colour, according to their distinct characteristics. What a nice nod to each island's speciality in this autonomous region of Portugal 

Sao Miguel: the Green Island for its lush landscape and rolling hills;
Pico: the Grey Island for its volcanic soil and lava rocks;
Terceira: the Purple Island for its Renaissance buildings of purple facades;
Faial: the Blue Island for its ubiquitous blue hydrangeas;
Sao Jorge: the Brown Island for its fertile brown soil and dark rock striations;
Flores: the Pink Island for its abundance of floral species and luxurious botanicals;
Santa Mario: the Yellow Island for its beaches with pale yellow sand and warm waters;
Graciosa: the White Island for its white rocks faces that trim its graceful coastline; lastly,
Corvo: the Black Island for its black basalt rocks which partition the small village lands

So, we started our discovery on the main 'green' island of Sao Miguel and arrived first at its capital Ponta Delgada. By booking & setting our own personalized itinerary,  flying out non-stop on a Thursday on Satay airline provided a lucky break - the plane was not even half full which meant Tom & I each got to stretch ourselves out the full extent of an entire row, sweet!!

We stayed by the spacious harborview rooms of Azor Hotel, not right in the historic town center, but close enough so that it gave us an opportunity to stroll the broad harbor path to and fro during our evening meals. Each morning, their inclusive & abundant breakfast selections gave us a terrific boost for the day and was ample fuel to carry us through our excursions til suppertime

Striking architecture in all official bldgs volcanic black basalt trim its whitewash walls 

Ponta Delgada's iconic Portas da Cidade, 17thC city gates with its royal coat of arms in the centre. It leads one from the harbor to the Praca Goncalo Velo Cabral square and Church of Sao Pedro. Great afternoon to explore the sights of the old city & seek out local cuisine



  • Our first aperitif whilst we set our plans for the next few days 
  • & later having grilled limpets on a skillet for the first time ...chewier than mussels or clams but definitely tasty and big eyed peixes cantarilho, very fresh!
    Planning the hikes and sightseeing is best done via online livecam 'spotazores' (given to us by hotel concierge). The weather patterns of the islands vary greatly due to the prevailing winds and elevated terrains of major attractions so its wise to keep an eye on live webcam as conditions can change quite rapidly within a few hours.
    We took advantage of the beautiful weather the second day to take in Lagoa do Fogo (aka Lake of Fire), a crater lake at the center of Sao Miguel Island. The crater sits within the Agua de Pau Massif stratovolcano and is the highest lake on the island. It has an elevation at its rim of 3,114 ft in altitude. This area is generally wet and cloudy and of the 5 days we spent in Sao Miguel, I believe this was the only day that escaped its normal pervasive cloudy canopies.  It was the tail end of the seagull nesting season (April - May) and we did witness much of their lively chattering as we took in different angles of the lake from their birds eye perspective before descending to do the short circuit hike to the beach

    Due to the excellent weather, we took our time capturing this astonishing vista on our hikes down and up the lake which is the bottom of a collapsed caldera... its about 4 km distance but some parts are a bit steep. The ascent at our leisure took us about 25 minutes, so definitely doable as a half-day excursion. Surprisingly, there were only scant number of visitors at this protected reserve of endemic lush greenery & azure colored waters ...swimming & fishing are allowed on the lake as well




    Drinking in amazing view of blue/green 'lake of fire' trimmed by azorean holly, laurels 




      
    What better way to finish off a hike than soaking in the hot mineral pools of Caldeira Velha. Its actually a big park in the middle of a jungle that gets plenty of visitors.There are three thermal pools of varying temperatures, bigger one bit colder & has a nice waterfall backdrop. 
    The pools were ~38 to 40 degrees. The cold water from the mountain mixed in with hot boiling thermal springs. There are great hikes too in the tropical park with old mill, souvenir shop, ice cream - great family place for the weekends


    For dinner, the locals referred us to the Restaurante da Associacao Agricola in Ribeira Grande. As we arrived, it looked like an agricultural festival was just finishing off in the adjacent grounds. The place was indeed a family type restaurant... service was friendly & food came quickly. Fresh farm to table steaks! 
    On the referral of a friend, we booked 1 day local sightseeing tour to orient ourselves in SM

    Azores has quite a history with the pineapple crops.

    Theirs is unique in all the world - has a small crown ..more intense flavor - takes 2 years to raise from flower to fruit, and lots of smoke in the greenhouse to enhance its growth - a technique apparently discovered quite by accident  

     After sampling pineapple liqueur, can't pass by this blooming bougainvillea without a memento pic


    The weather was turning overcast by midday and although our guide took us thru few other notable sights, the pics were not up to par without any sunlight. But we had a few more days to explore them later on our own ...so settling back here to just enjoy the mom&pop patio Restaurante Lagoa Azul with fellow Canadians 

    At the Cha Gorreana tour of the oldest and only tea plantation in Europe which  still utilizes the traditional Oriental processes introduced to the family over five generations ago. Here's the Chinese tea master Lau-a-Teng who taught the Azorean how to farm tea. After all, they had all the right conditions - tropical, high altitude places that receive a ton of sunlight

    Back in the 1800s,  agriculture in the Azores meant almost exclusively oranges ...until a blight wiped their species out. Jose do Canto first planted the seeds from Japan and India, but it was the arrival in 1878 of Teng with a handful of other Chinese workers that jump started S.Miguel's tea economy. Cha Gorreana still offers its tours freely and invites guest to sip complimentary cups of tea ..great way to pull up a chair by the window or patio where you can scan or even walk the rolling green fields brimming with rows of unharvested leaves that seemingly stretch all the way to the coast

    Coastal drives are the epitome of an Azorean holiday - the roads & highways esp in S. Miguel are smooth & uncongested. 
    Gorgeous coastlines pop in and out of view... at other times, the winding curves lined by tall bare barks of the plane trees resembling militia motifs, accompanied by roadside florals of spider chrysanthemums, purple, blue and white hydrangeas & vividly red cannas ...a colorful tapestry for the eyes and soul 

    Some miradouros like this one on the northern coast of Santa Iria compelled us to make a stop 


     At Nordeste Sao Miguel - beautifully rendered Portuguese tile work laid to set off the dramatic chalk-like white walls outlined by black basalt stones. Exploring the town put you right back to an era of storybooks...nice for city dwellers to glimpse a bucolic life  
     dramatic floral colors and airy windswept land & seascape views!
     The area of Nordeste is least populated on the island of Sao Miguel as most of its interior is covered forests, mountainous peaks and river valleys, punctuated by fertile pastureland - in the distance above the clouds are Pico da Cara (highest), Pico Verde, Pico Redondo and Pico Bartolomeu 















     At the Picina Naturale di Ferreira - the ultimate outdoor hot tub - except when we got there towards dusk, we deliberated as temp dipped and  sun ducked into the clouds - we eventually donned our swimwear just to try out the waters - the ocean dip is free but for a fee there is an adjacent spa with large pool facility for a fee




     It was an arduous feat to just navigate ourselves over all the porous jagged lava surfaces 
     to safely place towels/ shoes/ iphone close by yet not too close so as to avoid being splashed by the fickle ocean sprays...on this day the cold crashing waves won out as the sea water was still tepid,  we certainly did not feel the geothermal hot spring much 

    Our last stop for the day to see the sunset was at the western shores of the island, Mosteiros ... much more popular in the july/august months 
     Upon the almost universal recommendation of the locals, we tried Restaurante Cais 20 - portions were huge ..ordered halibut & calamari, but was regretting not getting the grilled octopus - looked tastier 


    Short flight on Satay Air to Faial - staying at the harborview Hotel Do Canal - clear views  

    Arriving in Horta, we eagerly pulled up at the side patio of Peter Cafe, its  renown has spread  since its opening in 1918. A cosmopolitan meeting point for whalers, seamen and secret agents. Three generations of the Azevedo family, Jose Henrique named the bar (Peter) after the son of a WWII US marine who lost his son during the war



     Historic hotel - the Pousada Forte da Horta  restored for guest - we had a nice walk around the premise - good views overlooking the harbor
    The Horta promenade is a marvelous stroll - we took it on foot to purchase advance ferry tickets to the island of Pico across the straight. The harbor area is lively and chalk painted with calling cards from all over the world. Various eateries and shops line the main thorough fare ...its also where we finally stopped putting off the whale watching excursion & reserved our spot for the next day's sail.


    At Canto da Doca for dinner: self-cooking on hot volcanic rock - great fun and savory seafood/meat
    An early morning view from our balcony in Hotel Do Canal - promising weather to be try our luck to spot some whales in this part of the Atlantic where the 3 islands of Sao Jorge, Faial and Pico form a triangular shelter for the whales  ( ie. sperm, pilot, beaked, blue, fin, sei, minke and humpback) to be more easily spotted ..along with bottlenose dolphins
    Faial's vantage point, we were told, is one of the world's best location for observing whales in the wild.... The impressive sperm whale is an apparent year round resident ...well, true to rumors, after much swaying, ricocheting, and bobbing up and down with the waves,... about 40 min in to the chase, we did get close enough to a foursome of teenage sperm whales, swimming in a row, gracefully, albeit looking a bit like floating logs..lol 
     Never did see its mother, we were told, although at such a distance, I would not have known the distinction...pics did not come out and some videos can be made out yet I wouldn't bother as one can view much clearer & more awesome instagram 'discoverocean'  captures. The dolphins however were more prone to entertaining & seemed to be heralding us along as we headed back to Horta marina


    Our taxi driver from the airport came  to be our our guide for a day tour of Faial - scenic pastoral hills and happy cows serene as can be grazing by the roadsides... this is as idyllic as life can be for animal husbandry...lol


    At the Caldeira Do Faial - a vast crater of extinct volcano 1.5 km diameter - its where the island originated 
    The afternoon was spent touring the moon like Vulcao dos Capelinhos - its like a place from another time period, another planet - the barren scoria cones and lava fields is merely 60 years - from the Oct 1958 eruptions that sent many refugees to north america




    Miraculously, there were no deaths from the eruption. Ash deposits and some projectiles caused destruction of homes and blanketing of agricultural lands in the nearby parishes and many families had to flee - thus the Azorean Refugee Act was sponsored by US Democratic congressman in 1958
    If time permitted Tom would have wanted to hike its perimeter to the caldera summit, but we decided to just climb to top of the lighthouse 
    Several swimming spots along coastline of Faial - cottages for rent where european mainlanders  can come for a short summer stay and amidst the sea sprays, quaint restaurants and secluded coves. One such place is Varadouro where a huge natural swimming pool was formed as a result of volcanic activity on the coast. 


    On the ferry sailing out from Horta to Pico Island - the second largest in the Azore grouping and the highest peak in Portugal and third highest in the Atlantic ocean
    We planned a meetup in Pico ferry terminal with an mountain guide for day tour of this intriguing 'grey' island that's dominated our views from the balcony of our room in Horta. As we neared the Pico marina, the slit in an archipelago made for interesting landmark

    As we headed out with our guide to Pico mtn base camp constructed to register visitors before their ascent, we witnessed cloudy hat covering the tip. Actually, at times fumaroles permanently vent steam on the very top of cone of lava called Piquinho.  Its about a 7-8 hr hike round trip but the terrain (mostly craggy lava boulders) and fickle weather system up near the top slows many. We decided to take a trek just to the midpoint of the 2351 mt (7,713ft) 
    Here at the shelter cave of Pico  - the views past the clouds, over the ocean and nearby islands are spectacular. Per our guide, when the piquinho (small peak at top or 'nipple') is shrouded in circular formation of clouds as is this am, it doesn't bode well for climbers



     

    Our descent after our fill admiring the sublime views and performing fun poses  with photos taking ;)  - great morning calisthenics !
    More happy cows - they've got the best views day in and out with an excellent diet of supple green pastures ...on these islands, there are almost one cow per person. Fresh milk is the primary raw material  and high quality beef is exported to both Madeira and inland Portugal

    This island boasts bountiful sights for lovers of geotourism - several interesting landscape formations created from lava eruptions. There is ARcos do Cachorro, an impressive grouping of lava perforated by numerous tunnels & caves thru which the sea passes in a rush of tidal maelstrom
    Our guide has driven us all around the island now to the northern shores of Sao Roque where whaling tradition has held its main livelihood for the island since the 18thC - the whaling museum was opened in 1988 - in 2017 the Azorean racers used the old handcrafted wooden boats for  whaleboat regatta @ Lajes do Pico (on southern shores)
    Lunch spot along our drive ..the imposing Pico mountain always in view - still shrouded

    Pico has the most unique way to harvest wine & enjoys UNESCO world patrimony designated vineyards - very labor intensive, these lava walled labyrinth like pens are where grapes are tended. A tradition started since 15thC , quite a sight - the vines growing from lava soil and flourishing on the grey rocks. The basalt walls has a tendency to absorb and give back heat, leading to grapes ripe with sugar, whilst protecting them from sea spray & breezes. A most unique terroir  - white Pico wines are well recognized - take one sip and reminisce the ocean side, fresh yet salty bouquet with high minerality. Below our guide showing us his family vineyards - busy time in september harvests - all hands on deck!


    Return to Horta - the swirling lenticular clouds surrounding the piquinho appears to have cleared. The local tourist info ambassador for Faial - Antonio Americo Silva Vargas  (look him up in the small kiosk office next to the Pousada) set us up for our final evening in town with local cuisine - Genuino -  with traditional folk performances both upstairs and downstairs. We were reserved a prime open balcony table overlooking the seabar by Porto Pim bay and beach 

    Returning to Sao Miguel to stay this time near the town of Furnas ( pronounced 'furnish'), specifically at the  renowned Terra Nostra Botanical Park. 
    First order of business upon settling into our room was tea & beer. The leaves  of various tea selections are grown on the park grounds - sipply marvelous 😉

    the most vibrant hues and healthy blooms 
    ...it must be the regular moist air and rain showers ...the vegetation in the Azores don't just grow.. walking thru the park, I sense in the air, they're all thriving, burgeoning and sprouting in silent cackle ...lol   

    Relaxation to another level... we did a circuit of all the smaller hot spring enclaves ... green havens designed with natural rocks & minerals of the area... we felt blessed and pampered
    The botanical park's largest mineral bath is front and center of Thomas Hickling's 1775  historic estate -  a famous thermal water pool from mineral laden volcanic hot springs that nourishes you with temp between 35-40 degrees Celsius (95 -104 F)
    Our first meal in Furnas - to an adjacent hotel restaurant, A Terra Fornaria for its casual semi outdoorsy patio vibes: ceviche/steak 
                         Second day dip in giant mineral pool prior to another stroll in gardens





    There are over 2000 species of trees and over 300 varieties of ferns throughout this 200 year old park started in 1775 by the US Consul for this island. From a prosperous merchant family of Boston,  Thomas Hickling built his summer home aka Yankee Hall
    one can spend good part of an entire day just weaving through 31 acres of gardens, grottoes, lush avenues, serpentine trails, streams and ponds.... there are numerous exotic species from all around the world - camellias, cycads, and the tallest white eucalyptus tree from Tasmania  - see left











    Spotted a little black bird, it was clear that it could no longer fly and was badly injured, I picked it up to soothe it ...later we found it died on the spot where I laid it down
















    hydrangeas of multiple colors abound in the Azores even just on roadsides. Different soil PH levels account for their varying colors the more alkaline the pinker the bloom, for purple and blue, just increase the acidity by adding garden sulfur or aluminum sulfate to soil

    how delightful! a path of circular rocks so you can tiptoe into the pond and commune with the floating red dahlia lily pads and ducks 



    Going in to town of Furnas proper to witness the 'cozido' 

    By the picturesque lake of Furnas is a parkland area reserved for the restaurants- deep holes dug to access the natural volcanic thermal heat underground to boil dinner. The cozido pots usually contain layers of pork, beef, cabbage, kale, potatoes, carrots, chouico & blood sausages...a hodgepodge really of items to let the hot spring work its magic on collection of jumbled items  - we tried it one evening but felt it lacked seasoning 

    in the volcanic Furnas valley, you can smell the sulphur in the air - a constant for its inhabitants
    Leaving Furnas, we drive the serpentine roads lined with the ubiquitous plane trees

    As our first drive out to Sete Cidades on 3rd day of arrival was under cloud cover, we decided to take another excursion, this time on our own, after morning visit to Furnas


    Not as grey and winding this day but the lakes were still enveloped by rather thick clouds



    we checked out the view from the top balcony of the abandoned Hotel Monte Palace - the lake still looks to be the same color due to the cloudy skies. It's supposed to be blue vs green - we vowed to return next day for another encounter!

    Ahha !! a sunny day -  en route to Sete Cidadas we stopped @ Lagoa do Canario & other nearby lagoons. During our first drive here we couldn't even make out the presence of this body of water as the whole mountaintop was coated in thick fog ..lol
    Glorious weather - YES! its third time a charm for us in Sete Cidadas - great day finally to do a short hike and drive the perimeter of the mountain peaks surrounding the crater lakes ..I was apprehensive as our car was a low sedan not an SUV but the dirt paths were in the main quite navigable as local dairy farmers truck thru them habitually to tend to the cows strewn all around the high pastures




    Enjoying the clear views & paragliders off mtn plateau on this fine day...we were glad to allow for sufficient days after Pico for another visit here. Dubbed 'lagoon of the seven cities' ...yet why 7 cities?  Apparently, the origin comes from a Genovese cosmographer, Paolo Toscanelli, in medieval time who postulated the mythical lands in the Azores dwelt an archbishop with 6 other bishops, each with its own particular city. Later, the seven cities royal authentication was accepted. Some namesake is just fanciful conjuring ...lol 
    Have to post this same shot to juxtapose with an earlier one day before ...more vibrant!


    We returned to the ghost shell of a former 5 star hotel which only operated for a couple of years before being abandoned - built in 1980s before the tourists have caught on to the Azores... we were told that a Chinese consortium have purchased it and will be constructing another hotel soon... its a great idea as the views from the top floor balcony off the Vista do Rei (King's view) can't be beat!!

    So the fable goes like this ... a bad-tempered widower King and his daughter lived here and would not permit his daughter, Princess Antilia, speak to anyone. One day, the princess escaped to the local hills and led by a beautiful song, she found a young shepherd playing a flute. The two continued to meet in secret and fell in love...tragically when the shepherd boy asked her hand in marriage, the King refused and forbade his daughter to ever see him again. As she said their last goodbye, Antilia and the shepherd boy cried all afternoon, embracing, and their tears formed two beautiful lakes, one green, for the princess's eyes were green, and the other blue, eye color of shepherd boy

    Here by the beldevere of the abandoned hotel, the twin lakes on a sunny day reflect & emit distinct colors due to each different depth and ecology. The lakes, divided by a narrow bridge were formed in the crater of the Sete Cidades Massif, an ancient stratovolcano. A three mile wide crater with surrounding village population of just ~1000. The lush green foliages on the slopes remain dewy throughout as the crater tends to draw the clouds clinging onto its peaks on most days. Makes for a stunning pic :) 
    Tom was determined to see if one can take the trails up to the very edge & height of the mountains - thus here we are among the clouds and the occasional herd of cattle would examine us with mild perplexity as we drove past them 






    To get this panoramic iphone shot below, some balancing act on top the this wooden railing ...wonderful !
    Our first meal at Bar Caloura in Agua de Pau was all grey skies & showery, we returned for a second visit, this time no need to be tucked inside the tented balcony -  picked a table close to the edge of their veranda for tasty fresh crustacean and fish while in the distance, spirited schoolkids frolicked and dove into the sea by the rocks...its what summer is all about :)
    @ Povoacao Velha- municipality in the southeastern corner of the island. Old traditions of small scaled agriculture and fishing sustains this region
    Before our checkout from Terra Nostra, I  couldn't resist taking another turn around its awesome botanicals ... a soul lifting circuit to meander through  


    'A garden should be in a constant state of fluid change, expansion, experiment, adventure; above all it should be an inquisitive, loving, but self-critical journey on the part of its owner' 
                             - H.E. Bates 1904-75

     Mother guarding her eggs    


     wanna walk barefoot again to the other side of the pond to suss out the ducks ...


    The pink historic estates right beside Terra Nostra Garden in Furnas is mesmerizing in its weather worn hue ...next to city park 



    Time finally to leave Sao Miguel - embarking on another short flight to Terceira, our last Is
    Miradouro da Serra do Cume is a startling viewpoint in the mountain range overlooking a patchwork of fertile green pastures and the city of Praia da Vitoria




    ...next drove to Algar do Carvao  - a rare sight indeed ...into the volcano chimney that is now lava free.. 










    walking thru the magna chambers of an eruption from over 3000 yrs ago. At the bottom is a crystal clear lake formed by rainwater 


    Driving out to the pasture filled scenery of Terceira, hard to see that this is actually second most inhabited island of the Azores...tranquil farms and casually strolling cows & bulls  dot landscape...aka the lilac island, is a quaint place of dramatic cliffs,  panoramic pastures set off against lavender bluish skies. People congregate in its principle & historic town of Angra do Heroismo, built during the 15th & 16thC... it has the most intricately narrow grid of cobblestone streets reflecting eras past... the pic below is one of the main throughfares but be warned - not an easy place to drive or find parking






    Satay airline is prone to schedule changes ..this was the reason for our direct flight out of Terceira instead of Ponta Delgada...hence a chance to visit this fourth island albeit only for a day and half



    Our last Azorean supper of grilled limpets and octopus by  the marina bar restaurant in Terceira harbor












    At Terceira Mar hotel for a sunset dip and the morning breakfast before short stop in the old fort vantage point of Monte Brasil before our flight home   
    It truly was a shame our visit to Angra was cut short due to changes in Azore airline. We only had time to drive through the world heritage town which has sooo much history - it ruled the archipelago since the Age of Discovery ( the 15th C ). Prior to leaving, we did manage to drive up for the panoramic views from Monte Brasil. A Maltese cross column marks the highest point of this isthmus, which is the vestiges of a cone created after the ancient eruption of the Guilherme Moniz volcano. We'll have to put this town back on our list if we return to the Azores, along with the other island Flores we did not yet visit.