Costa Rica - January 2016

Our last night was spent in the town of La Fortuna ... the Tabacon buffet dinner was much more scrumptious..but ofcourse @ $ 45us pp charge, we decided once was enough & ventured into town for our second night. La Fortuna is also a tourist town - so the prices were certainly elevated ( eg. a swiss chalet type chicken dinner was decidedly 2x more $). All inclusive is the way to go. Primary industry in terms of revenue now is tourism. Other major exports are microchips due to abundance of silica(Intel) Secondary is agriculture (pineapple, coffee & bananas)

Main pool with swim up bar and water slide & a view of arenal volcano
A lush oasis with tropical gardens, oriental bridges, zen statues & day pods in secluded hotel guests only section..all made for a meditative and spiritual retreat ... a nice end to our Costa Rica trip.



Left pic - a quick escaping gecko stole a drink umbrella in its teeth :#


Si, la pura vida..& feeling blessed




There are numerous authentic natural hot spring pools & cascading waterfalls in the grand Tabacon complex. It's the life work of architect and owner Jaime Mikowski. This carbon-neutral resort property is extensive (350 hectares) of rainforest. The thermal springs consist of 97% rain based and 3% magna based flows entering through fissures. There are 5 thermal surfaces feeding the multi-directional flows, filling the volcano rock bottom pools with mineral rich warmth ( hint: bring watershoes)


Soothing
tired muscles from the past week of climbs, hikes, ziplines.


Our very last stop in Costa Ricca - 2 days in the Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort to get some pampering in the natural mineral hot springs 


 Final night for dinner @ Casa Luna & hot tubbing  
A baby howler monkey in the trees, this pic was taken by pressing our iphone to a ranger's telescope lense. These monkeys are known for their impressive howls which can be heard over 1.6km. But far from being dangerous, theses primates are placid, arboreal vegetarians that live in social groups. Their hair varys from black to brown to red. Left pic are the white nosed coati ..similar to racoons, they are omnivores

Shorter hike this time to another 'Catarata' waterfall



Next day's excursion - Alina suggested a short taxi ride to the Arenal Observatory and Lodge where we got in just in time for a nice breakfast by the panoramic dining room & patio before taking in the Saino (Peccary) Trail (~ 45 min paved)

Wow, venomous jumping pit viper casually lounging by the wall.
Rightpic -   toucans feeding on fruits


Hiking through a couple of hanging bridges and trails for about 15 mins, passing thru a corner bubbling with thermal hot springs with a strong sulphur smell, to arrive in Laguna Azul. Legends from the ticos has it that when our creator was done painting the sky he washed his brush in this river and thus it now bear the same color.

The phenomenon known as 'mie scattering' is behind the river's surreal color. Celeste river is fed by two colorless sources, the Buenavista River and Sour Creek ( see pic left where two rivers meet). The first carries a large concentration of aluminosilicate particles whereas the latter has a high acidity due to volcanic activity. When these two streams mix to form Celeste river, there's a drop in PH causing aluminum, silicon and oxygen particles to enlarge & aggregate. While these minerals are suspended in the water & hit by sunlight we witness optical magic!


Loved these 'indiana jones' bridge crossings

As was the case hiking to La Fortuna waterfall, we heard the roar of the Rio Celeste falls before we saw it.  The powerful river crashed 60 feet down from the trees above to fill the tranquil turquoise blue pool. Goosh! I wished they hadn't fenced off the lagoon against swimmers. It would have been delicious to topped off the long trek with a rewarding splash in this dazzling pool!




Before getting to village of Rio Celeste, we can already detect the sky blue color of the Celeste river winding its way through the park. Also observed the Cecropoa or Acacia trees (lower right) which we learned about in Tortugero. We were warned not to approach these trees as  they are usually swarming with red ants that act as protector for the tree. .It's yet another example of symbiosis as the plants provide food & lodging for the ants who return the favor by protecting plants against herbivores or growth of invasive harmful pathogens on its leaves  


We managed to luckily pick the clearest day of all during our stay near La Fortuna Casa Luna for the Rio Celeste trip. This hiking excursion involved first travelling via shuttle bus to the Tenorio Park entrance then a 2 mile hike up a sometimes steep, bouldered and tree rooted pathways to the magical blue lagoon. We stopped along the Ecoterra bus route for a group lunch and spotted a toucan in the restaurant gardens by the banana plants (upper right)



Views from the Casa Luna dining room as various small breakfast companions hangout to partake of a morning meal of bananas







 We hiked to a lookout point which we surmise must be as high as safely tourists are allowed as this youngest (7000 yrs old)  stratovolcano in Costa Ricca is still quite active. It has been observed to be producing lava and pyroclastic flows almost continuously since 1968, the year of the last eruption. Costa rica possesses over 300 volcanos although only 5 are active. There's never snow on any peaks even @ its highest elevation >12,000ft 


Some quick thinking w/phone call to Ecoterra guide got us 4 boxed lunches (thanks Sadie! ur best!) to munch on the bus as we made our way to the afternoon hike around the base of the Arenal volcano

Totally drenched but quite refreshed due to attempts to wade over to the opposite banks of the river. I gave up on this as Tom exhorted me to turn back. So, instead of crossing we started to hike up the gazillion steps to catch the Ecoterra bus & meet up for an afternoon excursion



La Fortuna waterfall. It's thunderous roar greeted us as the height of the drop is ~ 75 meters (240 ft) We didn't realize there were 400+ steps to get there, (gasping & panting) ...but it's a beaut!

Above is a small train of leaf cutter ants who live in massive colonies. We encountered several of such orderly processions during our hikes. Our guides told us the remarkable story of these leaf cutter ants that have successfully survived over 20 million years. The ants carry up to three times their weight in leaf to bring it to the queen ant ( which flies) to cultivate their fungal garden. The fungus and ants have a mutual symbiosis relationship. The ants are polymorphic, each has own specific task.           (left) A little intro to Maleku Indian village in their traditional grass hut... 'kapi kapi' (hi/welcome)


Look back guys.. and you can see the waterfall there!
We introduced our good friends to ziplining - they look like pros already !




Below is a view of the longest segment ( 1 km ) atop the tree canopies - the trick is to maintain very slack back hand & just grazing thru the cable in order to keep your momentum without slowing down

Next morning, we're off for an adventure with ropes!
 Well, hello neighbors, all settled in? Let's go tryout pools & hottubs


Si, como mi casa por tres dias! Nice digs and a view of the Arenal Volcano from balcony :)


A blue heron crosses our paths rather matter-of-factly


 





Upon checking in, the Arenal volcano @ 5435 feet was visible from Casa Luna yet its peak was shrouded in white clouds - the locals maintain it is typically thus & not often is the tip visible
Our next destination was Arenal Volcano. Ecoterra transferred us to beautiful Casa Luna hotel & spa which was also the site of the tour operator's main office  
On our way out of Tortugero - a croc seemed to bid us farewell ..hasta luego amigo ;)

all manners of rain forest fowls land and take off as we approach ever so quietly...ssshhh
Took an afternoon excursion to kayak the tributaries of the Tortugero river system

Yikes! Camens, crocs or alligators lurking in these muddy waters ... what were we thinking of !?! Truth be told though, it did feel very safe and our time was relaxing in the thick stillness of the rainforest



After dusk, the Laguna naturalist guide took us to view their ' agalychnis callidryas' aka red-eyed tree frog- very cute and not poisonous. 

every inhabitant is a master at camouflage!


Breakfasts and dinners were all taken in the main dining room buffet style - its where I started to really enjoy the costa rican style of fresh hot peppers & dark salsa sauces on the sides, yum!

The mix of different heritages in Costa Rica starts with the Inca Melas, spanish, japanese, chinese, & italians. Later on in the trip we were introduced to the maleku village and treated to the chica drink (pineapple corn & sugar cane blend) They doned traditional garb made of vegetabel mastate and displayed their craft of balsa tree masks each with storied symbolisms


Gnarled roots of trees clawing at the river's edge. You can sense that the amaretto waters must be teaming with organic nutrients of buried leaves, plants and insect life... have to confess, I can't now fathom wading in this jungle canal as explorers must have done eras past...
the riverbanks of the Tortugero channels shows the beauty of its untarnished and still natural rawness
 we witnessed an egret pausing, pouncing with lightening speed and catch its meal then ingesting it down its long narrow esophagus 



A local pointing proudly to us the village weekly sunday night venues of BBQ dinners here, must be a real feast!



First spotting of wildlife (left) the green vine snake is diurnal & mildly venomous. The Capuchin monkey (right) 

Next morning - a boat ride to nearby Tortugero village for a walk about and learn all about the historic significance of the forestry mills and prior extensive harvesting of the now endangered green turtles & giant leatherbacks. Mahogany was the primary forest industry of this area back at turn of the century. Now all the trees are depleted and so are the turtles which are totally banned from consumption. Currently in keen preservation mode
 Time to go for a beach walk about on sand resembling..soft chocolate dough ...or..
black sesame paste..

 Haha... Tom trading in golfer's tan for a beach tan!





After getting our bearings in the lodge, planning itineraries, booking a kayak tour, we realized the central office next to the dining room was also cast in the shape of a giant butterfly ... taking a page from Antoni Gaudi perhaps?

Home for the next three days in rainforest of Laguna Lodge. Nicely rustic yet beautifully sturdy mahogany wood & flooring, very comfortable. No aircon but we felt fine. A fan is set high on the ceiling. Night time boisterous rainfalls sounds lulls us to sleep ~.~

Flora & Fauna of the richest hues ..even the plant beetle got his camouflage marching orders ..lol




Arriving in La Tortuguero National Park
Enjoying the first of several boat rides in Tortugero :)


Is it just me? I kept on seeing all sorts of animalistic faces and profiles enbedded in the logs on the banks of the river (right - inca warrior?  ; left - head of lion? )
First spotting of a crocodile, by the looks of its snout (alligators have wider and more U shaped jaws at bottom)


 Roadside nature spotting - our first sloth of Costa Rica 'muy lindo'..

 Even more butterflies at roadsides when we got to the boat station @ La Pavona in Cariari - while the tours boats were being loaded with our luggages. It was hard to tear ourselves away from all this vibrancy, just not something we take for granted back home, especially in midst of January. 

Here we are again, nice to have nuestros veijos amigos along for this winter getaway trip :)




Very early morning start with our shuttle from San Jose - stopped mid morning for a brunch buffet at the restaurant / butterfly pavilion of Selva Tropical in Guapiles. This looks to be a popular road stop for several tours going from San Jose to Tortugero. It has very satisfying food and papayas were delicious! After we were fed, iphones out to tour the butterfly feeding stations in the back garden.
Our first night to explore San Jose and got a bite where the locals eat -Chelles- over 100 years old eatery that's retained its traditional charm. Squid rice dish ( casados ) was quite good. Good pick Bart!


Taxi dropped us off near the Teatro Nacional by a central square - could see it has a European flavor to it although closed by nightfall when we arrived.
Our first trip planned via Groupon! Partnered with the local tour agency Ecoterra. Arrival day shuttle transferred from San Jose airport to Best Western Irazu